starter



The three best flexplates with starter rings are DMPE, Mezeire and CSR. The 24volt MSD and CSR starters work really well.
 
I use a mezzire 138 tooth billet flex plate and their matching 24 volt starter Same ones have been in the car for three or more years. The flex plate is heavy, 9 lbs, but tough. Looked into a DMPE billet aluminum flex plate, was told the other day that they are out of production for now. Only selling the flex plate without the ring gears. Also they did not make any 138 tooth flexplates even when they were In production
 
Meziere flywheel and starter here. 12V starter 16V starting battery. I don't run a magneto, so cranking RPM is not important.
 
I use a mezzire 138 tooth billet flex plate and their matching 24 volt starter Same ones have been in the car for three or more years. The flex plate is heavy, 9 lbs, but tough. Looked into a DMPE billet aluminum flex plate, was told the other day that they are out of production for now. Only selling the flex plate without the ring gears. Also they did not make any 138 tooth flexplates even when they were In production
Jody any modifications required to run this setup on an MBR?
 
Jody any modifications required to run this setup on an MBR?
Yeah....some. Have to machine the end of the replaceable pan rail on the passenger side of the motor for starter clearance and even then I had to take a little off the side of the starter to allow bolt up. It bolts to the mid-plate..not the block..To gain access to the convertor bolts you have to drain oil and drop the pan. need to have access holes in the mid plate to the bolts.. Also found that the MBR crank flange stuck out farther from the back of the block than a BBC. Switched to a 1/2" mid plate and gained the clearance needed for the convertor to be able to pull forward .120 to the flexplate. With a 1/4' midplate the convertor was already touching the flexplate when I bolted the drive to the motor...no room to pull forward off the trans pump.
 
Yeah....some. Have to machine the end of the replaceable pan rail on the passenger side of the motor for starter clearance and even then I had to take a little off the side of the starter to allow bolt up. It bolts to the mid-plate..not the block..To gain access to the convertor bolts you have to drain oil and drop the pan. need to have access holes in the mid plate to the bolts.. Also found that the MBR crank flange stuck out farther from the back of the block than a BBC. Switched to a 1/2" mid plate and gained the clearance needed for the convertor to be able to pull forward .120 to the flexplate. With a 1/4' midplate the convertor was already touching the flexplate when I bolted the drive to the motor...no room to pull forward off the trans pump.
Thanks. Last time I ran an on board starter was before they extended the bellhousing liner... we ran a Mezier 168 tooth flywheel. It required almost the exact same modifications you mentioned. Although I didn't have a problem with converter clearance... I'm guessing the crank flange on a Miner is the same as a Chrysler.
 
What we did to clear the inner liner was to switch to a 162 tooth flexplate then used a oversized pinion on the starter which we bought from Synder Motorsports.
 
I have the Meziere flywheel and starter on a KB hemi, I use a chevy starter and have drilled and tapped the block on the pass side.

The starter itself is a 12 unit from a toyota camry 2.2 diesel or something like that and the selonoid is the only thing different in the 12 and 24 volt starters.

We run two braille batteries and a heavy duty 200 amp relay before the starter selonoid.

Everything works fine but we do have to back the engine to make sure it turns it over every time.

Do you guys experience the same with the MSD/CSR setups ?
 
Under normal operations we never have to back down the motor. We do spin it a small amount before we turn on the ignition so no kick back.
 
Looking for advice, which do you think would be better block mount or mid plate mount?? 168 tooth ring gear setup
 
Do you now have a starter pocket in your can. Are you sure a 168 tooth will clear the inner shield of your certified can?
 

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