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Nope they are different gear sets. If I remember correctly you can look at the front of the CS2 at the splines on the input shaft and count the splines. Big shaft has 35 splines. Sorry I don't know how many on a small shaft other than less than 35 and maybe 32

Never had a problem with the CS2. It is a lot easier to set up and maintain. No pull checks required. It is lighter than a CS1. There are two versions of the CS2 one with small shafts inside and one with big shafts. See the photo above to see the difference. Make sure you get a big shaft unit...

Nope, can't agree. Our 60fts are faster with a converter. PX cars with a converter are in the .80s on 60fts. MPH is a little faster with a clutch because less slippage but MPH don't win races. We ran 198mph with a converter at Bradenton and Jason Hamstra ran 201 mph in the eighth. As far as...

Latino ran a .779 in round one. This was the quickest ET in round one. Sorry about the brain fart. The DA was right around 1600 ft

Lol, Steve lost first round because Latino ran a .72 for the record. Even if Steve transmission had been good he could have run that unless Latino's reaction time was real slow. Don't think there was a blower car out there that could have run a .72.

Who is running that in NHRA?

Both Coan and Chance are top units but also top dollar. You can get cheaper ones from PTC and from Spec Rite Torque Converters (530) 243-8300. We ran a Spec Rite in the car in Sweden for years with a screw blower with no problems. We run a Bruno with a Lenco CS2 and the Bruno will take a CS1...

Are you building it to run NHRA Promod? Mike Janis uses a converter and has won numerous times in NHRA. I will never go back to a clutch. 65% of your maintenance time is spent on the clutch, you have to have a clutch grinding machine or enough discs and floaters to take you through the whole...

As far as I know Todd runs a converter with a Tydrive.

Other than the MSD Grid 77303 being in black does anyone know the difference between a 77303 and a 7730?

Yes just located the starter on the flexplate and drilled. If you make the mesh close then you can open it up with chevy starter shims

I think bolting it to the block is more stable.

Do you now have a starter pocket in your can. Are you sure a 168 tooth will clear the inner shield of your certified can?

Congratulation to Mike Janis and team in winning the Orlando Speed World Dragway Pro Winter Warm-Up. A great job. They are NHRA legal. It is going to be a great year for them

I believe when they say 92% they are referring to PSI screw blowers and not Whipples. I would recommend staying below 70% on your whipple. Starting off at 60% would be better then graduate up to 70%. 60% on a Whipple is equal to 92% on a PSI

You are correct, that is really high OD for a Whipple. Not sure it is designed to run that fast. If I remember correctly 70% is close to max.

Under normal operations we never have to back down the motor. We do spin it a small amount before we turn on the ignition so no kick back.

I think ours is about two quarts. The only time it has come close to full is if something caused the converter drive or converter to get real hot. It does get fluid in it every run but then after the fluid flows back into the converter drive.

I would highly recommend not using the same overflow tank because when the fluid from the Lenco goes up into the overflow tank it will drain back into the Lencodrive after the run. If you also have it hooked to the engine it will contaminant the transmission fluid. Also make sure the overflow...

Our starter is attached to the bottom of the hemi block on the drivers side like a BBC